What does one do when frustrated at the lack of affordable, open source portable trackers? If you’re [OG-star-tech], you design your own and give it modular features that rival commercial offerings while you’re at it.

What’s a star tracker? It’s a method of determining position based on visible stars, but when it comes to astrophotography the term refers to a sort of hardware-assisted camera holder that helps one capture stable long-exposure images. This is done by moving the camera in such a way as to cancel out the effects of the Earth’s rotation. The result is long-exposure photographs without the stars smearing themselves across the image.

Interested? Learn more about the design by casting an eye over the bill of materials at the GitHub repository, browsing the 3D-printable parts, and maybe check out the assembly guide. If you like what you see, [OG-star-tech] says you should be able to build your own very affordably if you don’t mind 3D printing parts in ASA or ABS. Prefer to buy a kit or an assembled unit? [OG-star-tech] offers them for sale.

Frustration with commercial offerings (or lack thereof) is a powerful motive to design something or contribute to an existing project, and if it leads to more people enjoying taking photos of the night sky and all the wonderful things in it, so much the better.

What do you do with a four-megapixel monochrome digital camera from the 90s that needed a dedicated PC with a frame grabber card to do anything useful? Easy — you turn it into a point-and-shoot by building your own frame grabber.

At least that’s what [Frost Sheridan] did with a vintage Kodak MegaPlus 4.2i, a camera that was aimed at the industrial and scientific market at a time when everyone was still using film for snapshots. Making this workhorse ride again meant diving into the manual, luckily still available after all these years, and figuring out what pins on the 68 pin connector would be useful. [Frost] worked out the pins for serial commands plus the 10-bit parallel interface, although he settled for the eight most significant bits to make things simpler. A Teensy with some extra RAM and a serial interface chip takes care of sending commands to the camera and pulling pixels off the parallel interface, and a 128×160 LCD provides a much-needed viewfinder.

With a battery pack mounted the whole thing is reasonably portable, if a bit of a chore to use. It’s worth the effort, though; the picture quality is fantastic, with a wide dynamic range and plenty of contrast. Hats off to [Frost] for bringing this beauty back to life without making any permanent modifications to it.

The Camp Snap is a simple fixed-focus digital camera with only an optical viewfinder and a shot counter, which has become a surprise hit among photography enthusiasts for its similarity to a disposable film camera. [Snappiness] has one, and also having a liking for waist-level viewfinders as found on twin-lens reflex cameras, decided to make a new Camp Snap with a waist-level viewfinder. It’s a digital twin-lens reflex camera, of sorts.

Inside the Camp Snap is the little webcam module we’ve come to expect from these cameras, coupled with the usual microcontroller PCB that does the work of saving to SD card. It’s not an ESP32, but if you’ve ever played with an ESP32-CAM board you’re on a similar track. He creates a 3D-printed TLR-style case designed to take the PCB and mount the camera module centrally, with ribbon cable extensions taking care of placement for the other controls. The viewfinder meanwhile uses a lens, a mirror, and a Fresnel lens, and if you think this might look a little familiar it’s because he’s based it upon his previous clip-on viewfinder project.

The result, with an added “Snappiflex” logo and filter ring, is a rather nice-looking camera, and while it will preserve the dubious quality of the Camp Snap, it will certainly make the process of using the camera a lot more fun. We think these cheap cameras, and particular their even less expensive AliExpress cousins, have plenty of hacking potential as yet untapped, and we’re keen to see more work with them. The full video is below the break.

Photographic accessories are often plagued by high prices, as photography is considered a rich man’s game. It doesn’t have to be that way though, and [Snappiness] is here to get you started on the route to cheaper kit with a waist-level viewfinder project.

If you’ve used a twin-lens reflex camera then you should be familiar with a waist level viewfinder, it’s a lens and mirror arrangement allowing the photographer to frame the shot looking down from above. Modern cameras often have no viewfinder, so this is aimed at digital compacts without flip-up screens.

It has three components, all available for relatively low prices, and mounted in a 3D printed case. There’s a prime lens, a mirror, and a Fresnel lens forming the part the photographer looks through. It’s a simple device, but still one which would cost a lot more off the shelf. The video is below the break.

It might interest you to know that this is not the first viewfinder project we’ve brought you for digital cameras.

Social media microblogging has brought us many annoying things, but some of the good things that have come to us through its seductive scrolling are those ad-hoc interest based communities which congregate around a hashtag. There’s one which has entranced me over the past few years which I’d like to share with you; the Shitty Camera Challenge. The premise is simple: take photographs with a shitty camera, and share them online. The promise meanwhile is to free photography from kit acquisition, and instead celebrate the cheap, the awful, the weird, and the wonderful in persuading these photographic nonentities to deliver beautiful pictures.

Where’s The Hack In Taking A Photo?

Of course, we can already hear you asking where the hack is in taking a photo. And you’d be right, because any fool can buy a disposable camera and press the shutter a few times. But from a hardware hacker perspective this exposes the true art of camera hacking, because not all shitty cameras can produce pictures without some work.

The #ShittyCameraChallenge has a list of cameras likely to be considered shitty enough, they include disposables, focus free cameras, instant cameras, and the cheap plastic cameras such as Lomo or Holga. But also on the list are models which use dead film formats, and less capable digital cameras. It’s a very subjective definition, and thus in our field everything from a Game Boy camera or a Raspberry Pi camera module to a home-made medium format camera could be considered shitty. Ans since even the ready-made shitty cameras are usually cheap and unloved second-hand, there’s a whole field of camera repair and hacking that opens up. Finally, here’s a photography competition that’s fairly and squarely on the bench of Hackaday readers.

A Whole World Of Shitty Awesomeness Awaits!

Having whetted your appetite, it’s time to think about the different routes into camera hacking. Perhaps the simplest is to take a camera designed for an obsolete film format, and make a cartridge or spool that takes a commonly available film instead. Perhaps resurrecting an entire home movie standard is a little massochistic, but Thingiverse is full of 3D-printable adapters for more everyday film. Or you could make your own, as I did for my 1960s Agfa Rapid snapshot camera.

If hacking film cartridges seems a little low-tech, a camera whether film or digital is a simple enough device mechanically that making your own is not out of the question. At its simplest a pinhole camera can be made from trash, but we think if you’re handy with a CAD package and a 3D printer you should be able to do something better. Don’t be afraid to combine self-made parts with those from manufactured cameras; when every second hand store has a pile of near-worthless old cameras for relative pennies it makes sense to borrow lenses or other parts from this boanaza. And finally, you don’t need to be a film lover to join the fun, if a Raspberry Pi or an ESP cam module floats your boat, you can have a go at the software side too. As a hint, take a look on AliExpress for a much wider range of camera modules and lenses than the ones supplied with either of these boards.

If I’m exhorting readers to have a go with a shitty camera then, perhaps I should lead by example. Past entries of mine have come from that Agfa Rapid cartridge I mentioned, but for their current outing I’ve gone for a mixture of new and old. The new isn’t a hack, I just like those toy cameras with the thermal printers, but the old one has been quite a project. Older consumer grade Polaroid pack film instant cameras are particularly unloved, so I’ve 3D-printed a new back for mine that takes a 120 roll film. It’s an ungainly camera to take to the streets with, but now I’ve finished all that 3D printing I hope I’ll get those elusive dreamy black and white landscapes on my poll of FomaPan 100.

If you want to try the #ShittyCameraChallenge, hack together a shitty camera and get shooting. Its current iteration lasts until the 1st of February, so you should have some time left to post your best results on Mastodon. Good luck!

The small size of action cameras has made them a great solution for getting high-quality experimental footage where other cameras don’t fit. GoPros are [Joe Barnard]’s camera of choice for his increasingly advanced rockets, but even the smallest models don’t quite fit where he needs them. They also overheat quickly, so in the video after the break, he demonstrates how he strips and customizes them to fit his required form factor.

[Joe] starts out with a GoPro HERO10 Bones, which is a minimalist version intended for FPV drones. He likes the quality of the 4K 120 FPS video and the fact that he can update the settings by simply holding up a QR code in front of the camera. The case appears to be ultrasonically welded, so careful work with a Dremel is required to get it open. The reveals the control board with an aluminum heat sink plate, and the sensor module on a short ribbon cable. For minimal drag[Joe] wants just the lens to poke out through the side of the rocket, so he uses slightly longer aftermarket ribbon cables to make this easier.

The camera’s original cooling design, optimized for drone airflow, meant the device would overheat within 5 minutes when stationary. To increase the run time without the need for an external heat sink, [Joe] opts to increase the thermal mass by adding thick aluminum to the existing cooling plate with a large amount of thermal paste. In an attempt to increase heat transfer from the PCB, he also covers the entire PCB with a thick layer of thermal paste. Many of the video’s commenters pointed out that this may hurt more than it helps because the thermal paste is really intended to be used as a thin layer to increase the contact surface to a heat sink. It’s possible that [Joe] might get better results with just a form-fitting thermal block and minimal thermal paste.

[Joe] is permanently epoxying three of these modified cameras into his latest rocket, which is intended to fly at Mach 3, and touch space. This may look like a waste of three relatively expensive cameras, but it’s just a drop in the bucket of a very expensive rocket build.

We’ve seen GoPros get (ab)used in plenty of creative ways, including getting shot from a giant slingshot, and reaching the edge of space on a rocket and a balloon.

High-speed photography with the camera on a fast-moving robot arm has become all the rage at red-carpet events, but this GlamBOT setup comes with a hefty price tag. To get similar visual effects on a much lower budget [Henry Kidman] built a large, very fast camera slider. As is usually the case with such projects, it’s harder than it seems.

The original GlamBOT has a full 6 degrees of freedom, but many of the shots it’s famous for are just a slightly curved path between two points. That curve adds a few zeros to the required budget, so a straight slider was deemed good enough for [Henry]’s purposes. The first remaining challenge is speed. V1 one used linear rails made from shower curtain rails, with 3D printed sliders driven by a large stepper motor via a belt. The stepper motor wasn’t powerful enough to achieve the desired acceleration, so [Henry] upgraded to a more powerful 6 hp servo motor.

Unfortunately, the MDF and 3D-printed frame components were not rigid enough for the upgraded torque. It caused several crashes into the ends of the frame as the belt slipped and failed to stop the camera platform. The frame was rebuilt from steel, with square tubing for the rails and steel plates for the brackets. It provided the required rigidity, but the welding had warped the rails which led to a bumpy ride for the camera so he had to use active stabilization on the gimbal and camera. This project was filled with setback and challenges, but in the end the results look very promising with great slow motion shots on a mock red carpet.

We’ve seen DIY camera sliders of all shapes and sizes, including ones made from skateboard trucks and wood, and even a measuring tape.