Okay, you have to see the gallery to appreciate it, but this keyboard was designed to resemble a red cedar tree with the green shell and wood bottom and the copper PCB showing through the tree cutouts on the sides.

Oh, and are those Nintendo Switch joysticks above the PS2 buttons? Those are for the mouse and vertical/horizontal scrolling. Honestly, this seems like a great amount of thumb controls. The basics are there (presumably), and there isn’t any thumb-extending excess, like keys on the insides by the mouse.

This bad mama jama runs on an RP2040 and has 50 hand-wired Cherry Brown switches plus the PS2 buttons. In the build guide, you can read all about [WesternRedCdar]’s troubles with integrating those. The Nintendo Switch joysticks weren’t terribly easy, either, since the ribbon connector can’t be soldered directly.

The final issue was one of weight. Since many of the switches stand quite tall, it sort of jostles the keyboard to actuate them. [WesternRedCdar] opined that that the ideal solution would have been to use metal base plates instead of wood, but took care of the issue by adding layers of 1/8″ steel flat bar inside the case.

Gone in 60 Seconds: the Micro Journal Rev. 7 From Tindie

Don’t know what took me so long to find r/writerDeck, but here we go! [WorkingAmbition7014] was quite excited to announce there that [Background_Ad_1810] aka [Un Kyu Lee]’s Micro Journal rev. 7 was up on Tindie. It’s already sold out, but that’s okay because previous versions are already open-source, and it’s just a matter of time before this new revision makes its way to the ole GitHub.

This distraction-free machine is based on the ESP32-S3 microcontroller. It starts up right away, and you can start typing pretty much immediately on the ePaper screen. There are a pair of knobs that go a long way toward its typewriter looks; the left one wipes the screen and puts the machine to sleep, and the right knob clears the screen in the case of too much ghosting.

Files are saved on the SD card that sits behind the screen, or you can send them to Google Drive. Now, it doesn’t come with that cool clip light, but it doesn’t have a backlight, either, so you’ll probably want to bring your own. You will also have to source your own 18650. Be sure to check out the overview after the break.

The Centerfold: Purple Paradise

I love these setup pictures, but I have to wonder, does anyone really keep their desk this clean and tidy? Of course not, it’s for the shot, you’re saying. But that’s my point. Why does everyone always tidy up so hard first? I want to see battle stations in their true forms sometimes. I feel like we got sorta close last week in the one with all the screens. So do I need to inspire centerfold submissions by showing my own battle station one of these times? I don’t know if y’all really want that.

Do you rock a sweet set of peripherals on a screamin’ desk pad? Send me a picture along with your handle and all the gory details, and you could be featured here!

Historical Clackers: the Ford Typewriter

Isn’t this machine a beauty? And no, inventor Eugene A. Ford bore no relation to Henry Ford the automobile maker. But wouldn’t this look grand while perched briefly on the running board of your Model T for a quick daguerreotype?

Lovely as she was, the 1895 Ford was no fun for the typist. The Space bar-placed Shifts required real pressure to properly operate, and the keys are evidently springy and wobbly. “Springy” sounds intriguing; “wobbly” does not.

Additionally, the advancing lever doesn’t allow going backwards or forwards a line at a time. But the one great thing about the Ford was that it’s a visible writer, whereas most machines of the time were blind writers, meaning you were unable to see what you were typing without stopping and doing something first. It wasn’t the first visible writer, but it might be the easiest to look at.

What it did do first is use aluminium in its construction, although there were two versions, one with an all-aluminium frame and carriage, and the other with a black, enameled cast iron frame and and an aluminium carriage. The cast iron went for $75, and the lighter-weight aluminium machine for $85. Both were lateral thrust machines, which means that the type bars are spread out like a fan and move horizontally to strike the platen.

Eugene Ford had quite the career. After putting his typewriter on the market in 1895, he worked with IBM for the rest of his life, and became chief development engineer of the New York laboratories in 1911. During his tenure, he developed improvements to various punched card accounting machines, sorters, and counters.

Finally, a Keyboard for Cat Lovers

Cats and keyboards go together like peanut butter and jelly. When they’re not straight up walking across it, they’re fluffing it up. Well, why not admit defeat and get this cozy cat-themed keyboard?

This is the Dry Studio Petbrick 65, which comes in calico and black, which is called the odd-eyed design, presumably because the kitty on the Escape key has heterochromia.

Now that’s just the keyboard itself that comes in calico and black; soon you’ll be able to get all kinds of fuzzy bezels, which attach with magnets and are hand-washable, thankfully.

The Petbrick 65 isn’t just some cutesy little thing. This is a serious mechanical keyboard with a sandblasted POM plate, a specially-tuned (what? how?) cotton poron switch pad, PET film for the sake of acoustics, and two layers of sound-dampening foam.

The switches are custom-made ‘crystal pinks’ that were developed in-house and look pretty slick. If you don’t like them, the PCB is hot-swappable. And they didn’t stop there — the keycaps have dye-sublimated legends for longevity.

Would I type on this? I would, at least until it became uncomfortable for my RSI situation. I’m interested to try these crystal pink switches and feel the fluffiness of the frame on the heels of my hands.

Got a hot tip that has like, anything to do with keyboards? Help me out by sending in a link or two. Don’t want all the Hackaday scribes to see it? Feel free to email me directly.

Doesn’t this look fantastic? Hard to believe it, but the base of this keyboard began life as a cutting board, and there’s a gallery to prove it. This is actually [androidbrick]’s second foray into this type of upcycling.

This time, [androidbrick] used a FiiO KB3 and replaced the bottom half of the plastic shell with a hand-routed kitchen cutting board. The battery has been disabled and it works only in wired mode, which is fine with me, because then you get to use a curly cord if you want.

Those keycaps look even nicer from top-down, which you’ll see in the sound test video linked above. Just search ‘JCM MOA GMK’ on Ali and you’ll find them in a bunch of colorways for around $20. Apparently, [androidbrick] was saving them for months, just waiting for this build.

Via reddit

Why You Should Always Re-flash New Keyboards

About a month ago, [Artistic-Art-3985] bought the cheapest Corne available on Ali and posted a breakdown of the security and electronics.

In a follow-up post, [Artistic] does a great job outlining why you should always re-flash your new keyboards, especially the cheap ones. Although it may seem like a long shot, the threat is real, and he points to a couple examples of shenanigans, like keyloggers.

In a comment to his original post, [Artistic] explains that this particular Ali Corne comes with QMK Vial, which allows you to change the layout on a whim and have it update instantly. This means you don’t have to flash it, but you should, and it’s easy to do and either stick with Vial, or move to straight QMK. He also outlines how it’s done.

The Centerfold: the Hackaday Every Day Carry

So what we’ve got here is a Skeletyl keyboard along with some friends, like a Flipper Zero and a Pwnagotchi. Who knows why the knife, but then again knives are useful I suppose. I really dig the cute little trackball, though it seems like it would be fiddly to actually use. This series of posts by [devpew] kicked off a whole everyday carry thing on reddit, which was enjoyable.

Do you rock a sweet set of peripherals on a screamin’ desk pad? Send me a picture along with your handle and all the gory details, and you could be featured here!

Historical Clackers: My Own Personal Holy Grail

So your girl did some wheeling and dealing this weekend and traded four machines plus some cash for her holy grail typewriter, a blue correcting IBM Selectric II. She also got a typewriter table and a dust cover in the deal. It was quite a weekend, really. Got a surprise band saw for late-Christmas, too.

Here’s the best part. When I bought Selectric Blue (it was between that and calling her “Bertha the Bluegirl”), she was in a tan case. A grail for sure, but not the holy grail. I was happy enough to get a working II, mind you. But on a whim, I asked the guy if he ever saw any green ones come across his bench. I don’t know why I didn’t ask about blue; it’s my favorite color after all. But then he tells me he has blue and black cases available right then, though they probably wouldn’t fit the machine I bought. But then we figured out that they did, and I met up with him the following day to turn her blue. Now she’s all I ever wanted. I even got the type ball of my dreams — Adjutant.

(Note: I still love my IBM Wheelwriter 5, which is basically the 80s version of the Selectric. I just love them differently, is all, like having a pair of cats. The Wheelwriter is plastic, for one thing, and the Selectric is almost solid steel. But the Wheelwriter is so snappy and types so crisply, so…)

So, you probably want to know things about the Selectric II. It is the sequel to the Selectric I, which was only called the I after the II came out. The original Selectric wowed the world with its spinning golf ball type element, which replaced the swinging type bars of most typewriters and hearkened back to. My machine is in a way the Selectric II.5, as the first IIs introduced in 1971 didn’t have correction built in — that came along in 1973.

So much has been written about Selectrics. But did you know they were part of Cold War-era espionage?

ICYMI: Casio Calculator Gets New Keyboard

[Poking Technology] had one with a broken membrane keyboard and decided to upgrade it to a mechanical keyboard. Of course, it’s no longer pocket-sized, but who’s counting?

If you like build detail, you’re in for a treat, because there are two videos covering the entire process. It was a challenge to disassemble the thing, and soldering wires to the keyboard was no picnic, either — some lines are on the back of PCB and go under the main IC on their way to the top. Excellent work, [Poking]!

Got a hot tip that has like, anything to do with keyboards? Help me out by sending in a link or two. Don’t want all the Hackaday scribes to see it? Feel free to email me directly.

It’s been a minute since I featured a tiny keyboard, and that’s okay. But if you want to get your feet wet in the DIY keyboarding community, making a little macro pad like [Arnov Sharma]’s Paste Pal is a great place to start.

Right now, [Arnov] has the Paste Pal set up to do Copy, Paste, Enter, Scroll Up, and Scroll Down, but changing the assignments is as easy as updating a few lines of code.

Paste Pal Mk. II is at heart a Seeed Xiao SAMD21, which in this case is programmed in Arduino. If you want to make things easier on yourself, you could program it in CircuitPython instead, although [Arnov] includes the Arduino code in his excellent build guide.

A Good Soldier, Indeed

RIP to [Pure-Bullfrog-2569]’s 7-year-old masterpiece of a hand-wired build, which recently gave its last keystroke.

At the urging of many redditors, it appears that [Pure-Bullfrog-2569] will set the keyboard aside for a later date, rather than just throwing or parting it out, or hanging it on the wall.

The controller itself is dead, which was a fake Teensy anyway, so maybe they’ll solder in an RP2040 or something and bring it back to life. Apparently it sounded pretty cool to type on. I bet it did!

The Centerfold: Screens, Screens Everywhere

Do you rock a sweet set of peripherals on a screamin’ desk pad? Send me a picture along with your handle and all the gory details, and you could be featured here!

Historical Clackers: the SEGA Pico Keyboard

I know, I know; this looks like my typical centerfold choice. But hear me out. So I was trying to get ChatGPT to trawl GitHub for new-ish hardware keyboard projects on my behalf, and it came back with this intriguing picture of a SEGA keyboard. There was also a Hello Kitty variant!

Now of course the actual link it listed goes to a DIY keyboard with a Raspberry Pi Pico inside, which is a nice build, by the way. You should check it out.

But anyway, back to this Japanese Fisher Price situation. It is apparently an accessory for the SEGA Pico system, which was a lot like a LeapPad, and used the same processor as the SEGA Mega Drive. It did sell in North America and Europe, but only for an unsuccessful four years before being discontinued. Apparently it has a regular PS/2 connector (Indonesian, translated) and works just fine as a computer input.

I don’t know what kind of  switches this thing has, but I would love to find out. It looks fun to type on, at least. And I don’t just mean because of the colors. Those keycaps remind me of that 80s square gum with the goo inside. Freshen Up.

Finally, a Keyboard for Writers

So this floaty mechanical keyboard is the latest offering from Astrohaus, who rose to fame with their AlphaSmart NEO-like device called the Freewrite, which apparently I disliked enough to never even cover. Why bother with that when you have OG NEOs lying around? Also, those Freewrite things are pricey for what they are, and I’ve seen plenty of writer decks on Hackaday to believe that I could build my own if I wanted.

Much like the Freewrite, the Wordrunner is aimed squarely at writers. And how do we feel about it? Well, as much as I love my Kinesis Advantage, it sure doesn’t have an electromechanical word counter or a sprint timer built into it like this one does.

It looks white, but the body is all metal and feels great according to Tom’s Hardware. All Wordrunners will ship with Kailh box browns and are not hot-swappable. Well, I suppose these are for writers and not necessarily keyboard enthusiasts. Perhaps the most interesting bit is that the F keys are replaced by common writerly actions, and there are a couple of programmable macro keys on top of those.

If there’s one thing writers love, it’s watching that word count go up. I can imagine how awesome it would be to watch it spin the faster you type, although that might trigger an urge to write nonsense. But sometimes great things come from such brainstorms.

Of course I don’t love that the Wordrunner is a standard TKL rectangle, but you gotta start somewhere, I suppose. Maybe they’ll make an ergonomic one someday. Like the other products under the Astrohaus/Freewrite umbrella, this one will launch on Kickstarter. Who knows how much it will be, probably at least $200, but you can reserve one for a refundable $1 ahead of time.

Got a hot tip that has like, anything to do with keyboards? Help me out by sending in a link or two. Don’t want all the Hackaday scribes to see it? Feel free to email me directly.

We’ve all been there. That sad day when the zipper on our favorite hoodie, bag, or pair of pants breaks in some seemingly irreparable way. But there is hope, and [Magic Stitches] is gonna show you how to make some common repairs using household items and, in some cases, just a little bit of easy hand sewing. After a warm up with a kitchen fork, the video moves on to more significant problems.

The first problem — a chewed-away zipper bottom — is quite common, but requires no sewing to fix. As you’ll see in the video below, all it takes is a drinking straw, some hot glue, a lighter, and a pair of scissors to recreate the plastic bit that keeps the zipper from splitting in twain.

Now the second issue concerns a pair of pants wherein the head has come off the static side of the zipper. This one seems impossible to fix, but [Magic Stitches] cuts into the static side about five teeth from the bottom, slides the head back on, and sews the bottom of the zipper together.

This one we take a little bit of an issue with, because it assumes that you can get your jeans on over your hips without needing the zipper head to be fully down. But what else are you going to do but throw the jeans away upcycle the jeans into a fanny pack or something to immortalize them?

For the third issue, we’re back to the poor red hoodie, which also has a run in the zipper tape. After cutting off the fuzzies, [Magic Stitches] sews it back together with a contrasting thread (presumably to help us see the repair). If they had used black, it wouldn’t show at all, except now there is just a tiny bit of pull on the hoodie where the snag was. Again, we’re saving a presumably beloved hoodie here, and some people like their repairs to show.

Finally, [Magic Stitches] has a duffel bag with a zipper that comes back apart once it’s been zipped. At first, they tried squeezing the zipper head with pliers while the zipper was still attached, but that didn’t fix the problem. By carefully cutting the end of the tape, they could slide the head off of the ends and squish both sides with pliers more effectively. This is probably the hardest repair of all because it involves threading the head back on. In the end, all you have to do is sew a few stitches across the end of the teeth and then sew the tape back to the bag.

Got a broken zipper box? You can fix that with 3D printing. Mystified about how zippers work? No need to be.

You know, it’s a tale as old as custom mechanical keyboards. [penkia] couldn’t find any PCBs with 36 keys and Gateron low-profile switch footprints, so they made their own and called it the LoremIpsum36. Isn’t it lovely?

This baby runs on an RP2040, which sits flush as can be in a cutout in the PCB. This maneuver, along with the LP switches in hard-to-find SK-33 sockets results in quite the thin board.

[penkia] says that despite using a 3 mm tray for added rigidity, the entire thing is thinner than the Nuphy Air60 v2, which is just over half an inch (13.9 mm) thick. For keycaps, [penkia] has used both XVX profile and FKcaps’ LPF.

And yeah, that area in the middle is crying out for something; maybe a trackball or something similar. But [penkia] is satisfied with it as-is for the first version, so we are, too.

Do you like 36-key boards, but prefer curves? Check out the Lapa keyboard, which doubles as a mouse.

Mick Jagger famously said that you cain’t always get what you want. But this is Hackaday, and we make what we want or can’t get. Case in point: [Andrew Tudoroi] is drawn to retro LEDs and wanted one of Pimoroni’s micro-LED boards pretty badly, but couldn’t get his hands on one. You know how this ends — with [Andrew] designing his first PCB.

The Pitanga hat is equally inspired by additional fruit that [Andrew] had lying around in the form of an 8devices Rambutan board. (Trust us, it’s a fruit.) With some research, he discovered the HT16K33 LED driver, which checked all the boxen.

The first version worked, but needed what looks like a couple of bodge wires. No shame in that! For the next revision, [Andrew] added buttons and decided to make it into a Raspberry Pi HAT.

This HAT is essentially a simple display with a basic input device, and a beauty at that. You can see all the various cool displays that [Andrew] tried both here and in the project log. Although he included pads for an ARM M0 microcontroller, he never did populate it. Maybe in the future.

Of course, this project was not without its challenges. For one thing, there was power compatibility to wrestle with. The Pi can sometimes work with I²C devices at 5 V, but this isn’t ideal long-term. So [Andrew] put the LED driver on the 3.3 V I²C bus. Despite the data sheet calling for 4.5 to 5.5 V, the setup worked fine. But for better reliability, [Andrew] threw a dedicated I²C logic level converter chip into the mix.

Don’t forget, you can run a noble amassment of HATs with the PiSquare.

When live-action role playing, or LARPing, one must keep fully in tune with the intended era. That means no digital watches, and certainly no pulling out your fantastic rectangle from the future to find out if you’re late picking up the kid.

So what do you do when you’re LARPing at 2 PM, but you gotta be back at the soccer practice field by 5 PM? Well, you fashion a period-appropriate timepiece like [mclien]’s 17 o’ Clock. Visually, it’s about as close to a pocket sundial as you can get. It’s deliberately non-connected, and its only function is to tell the time.

But how? If you visually divide the watch across the top and bottom, you get two sets of Roman numerals. The top half handles the hour, and the bottom half the minute. [mclien] started designing this in 2018 and picked it back up in the second half of 2024.

Back to the non-connected part. The only permanently-powered part of the project is a high-precision real-time clock (RTC). The rest uses a power latching circuit, which turns on the Adafruit Trinket M0 to show the time using a NeoPixel ring. Be sure to check out the awesome project logs with fantastic pictures throughout.

Looking for a smarter pocket watch? It’s time you built one yourself. And speaking of pocket sundials…